Coronavirus and the Last Supper in Italy

This week the news hit that the novel coronavirus that has plagued central China continued its expansion around the world, with the northern Italy Lombardy region the hardest hit. A friend in Venice posted a note saying her family opted to drive to the Italian Alps rather than take a chance flying in an incubation tube. I’m happy that my trip to Italy was several years ago and I have great memories.

Milan is the capital of the Lombardy region, which also encompasses Como and the lakes. My time in Milan was precious. Our arrival by train brought us into Duomo Station, not far from the intricate façade of Milan Cathedral, the largest church in Italy. As soon as we entered the square we were besieged by men giving out “free” colored thread wrist bands. Free in the sense that they tied them to your wrists for free before haranguing you for payment. Still, the square was lively and the cathedral magnificent. Between eating pasta near the Duomo and dinner on Via Dante, a pedestrian side street featuring international flags and a plethora of sidewalk cafes, we explored the Castello Sforzesco (Sforza Castle) and environs. As much as we enjoyed it, the next day in Milan provided the highlight.

After a morning roaming the new architecture of the Missori neighborhood, and the archeological ruins along Via Ticinese, we made our way to Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie with its famous convent. Entering the attached refectory at our ticketed time, we joined a small group waiting for entrance into a anteroom separated from the main hall by glass doors. These elaborate precautions are taken to limit the number of people – and more importantly, volume of warm air – allowed in the refectory at any given time. Inside we are given a scant fifteen minutes to view, and be awed, by Leonardo da Vinci’s pseudo-fresco masterpiece, The Last Supper.

The Last Supper

Perhaps the world’s most recognized painting (in competition with Da Vinci’s other masterpiece, the Mona Lisa), The Last Supper is even more amazing to see in person. Taking up one wall on the short end of a long ancient dining room, the painting depicts Jesus dining with his twelve apostles, moments after he says that one of them will betray him. This dramatic moment is perhaps exceeded only by the drama the mural has undergone during its over 500 year history. Surviving a bombing that destroyed much of the building during World War II, the delicate nature of fresco (or in this case, da Vinci’s modified version of fresco) has meant repeated damage and restoration. At one point a doorway was cut in the wall, chopping off the feet of Jesus and others originally seen under the table.

I’ve been to Rome several times, as well as Venice on a separate visit, but this trip offered me the greatest appreciation of the wonders of Italy. Taking trains between cities, I saw the Sistine Chapel in Vatican City; the Leaning Tower in Pisa; Michelangelo’s David, Brunelleschi’s Dome, and the Uffizi Gallery in Florence; the two towers of Bologna; and now The Last Supper in Milan.

As I read about the encroaching coronavirus in Italy, South Korea, and the world, I’m reminded that my travel schedule has been lessened in recent months. Perhaps it has been a good thing to stay home for a while, but hopes are that the current epidemic doesn’t turn into a pandemic and limit travel for much longer. My heart goes out to friends in China who have been sequestered by government order for many weeks, especially knowing how small most homes are there.

Italy will again be on my radar once I get back out into the travel world, as will the other two dozen “must-see” places I still haven’t seen. Until then, it’s write, write, write.

David J. Kent is an avid science traveler and the author of Lincoln: The Man Who Saved America, in Barnes and Noble stores now. His previous books include Tesla: The Wizard of Electricity and Edison: The Inventor of the Modern World and two specialty e-books: Nikola Tesla: Renewable Energy Ahead of Its Time and Abraham Lincoln and Nikola Tesla: Connected by Fate.

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I Walked 77 Miles Through Italy – For This?

I recently returned from a well-deserved (at least in my mind) trip to Italy, during which my total walking mileage was about 77 miles. In 9 days. The trip started in Rome, passed through Pisa, flourished in Florence, broke in Bologna, and mingled in Milan before coming to a close in Geneva.  And in those places there was the Sistine Chapel, the leaning tower, the naked David statue (another David, no relation), the two towers (no, not the Tolkien ones), the Last Supper, and a mostly not spurting jet d’eau. Oh, and then there was the guy who picked my pocket.

But I’m not going to talk about those now.  I’m going to talk about the weirdos.

There are weirdos in Italy.  Did you know that? To be honest I really shouldn’t be shocked given that I’ve seen this sort of thing everywhere I’ve gone in Europe (not so much in Asia for some reason).  Mostly they are the street performers, if you can call sitting or standing with no movement performing.

First there was the guy sitting on the corner of piazza that keeps Trevi Fountain from running down the street. I think he went by the name of Ronnie Raygun.

Trevi street performer

Nearby was a slightly lost Praetorian Guard.  I believe, but cannot confirm, that he was checking the GPS app on his iPhone to locate the colosseum (two miles east).

Roman praetorian guard

Not to be outdone was this finely dressed gentleman.  Something strange about him – Not quite sure I can see what it is though.  I think he’s hiding something.

invisible man

This guy isn’t really a weirdo. In fact, he played the most extraordinary guitar.  On a most extraordinary guitar.  Very talented and a real treat to hear.

guitar player

Now this guy – he was weird.  But environmentally friendly!

The Tree Man

Even the horses got into the act.  Now I know what they mean by that old expression – “tying on a feedbag.”

horse and feedbag

Too bad we can’t teach the folks here in DC how to wear a costume and stand still for hours.  They would make a lot more money begging that way.

So this was my weirdo, er, street performer post for Italy.  I assure you that there were a lot of incredible sites along the way and I’ll definitely come back to share them with you all soon.  Here’s some art to whet your appetite. Anyone know who this is (who they are)?

David and Goliath